Restaurant Review: coastal views and classic cooking

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The eagle-eyed among you may recognise this week’s Eating Out spot, as we ran a competition to win dinner, bed and breakfast there back in May.

When it came to reviewing out-of-town options for the southsider looking for a nearby summer escape, Lochgreen House ranked high on the list.

Executive chef Andrew Costley’s restaurant is undoubtedly impressive — a special occasion lounge and dining room, all thick white tablecloths and tempting bottles.

The menu is equally inviting, and the other half and I settled in for a memorable Sunday lunch.

After a few canapes (lighter-than-light haggis bon bons stole the show) I started with ham hough and chicken terrine — presented beautifully alongside vibrant piccalilli — and quickly cleared the plate.

The OH opted for the duo of Ayrshire pork, served with apple and mead puree and black pudding — a rich, warm dish bound to please the manliest of meat eaters.

My main of stone bass with crisp bacon, pomme puree and a meaty jus was as close to a Sunday roast as fish could be — flaky fish and salty samphire marrying perfectly with earthier flavours. It was the best plate of food I’ve had in a while, and I savoured every bite.

The OH’s melt-in-the-mouth lamb — served with peas, mint and a buttery potato fondant — was another hit; elegant but without fuss.

I’m not a dessert person, but it’s possible that Lochgreen could convert me. I ordered a mysterious chocolate and passion fruit option — what came was a rich, dark mousse, passion fruit syrup, tiny bites of brittle and a gorgeously green pistachio ice cream.

Across the table, a heaving cheese board — stacked with bread, crackers, fruit and chutney — received two thumbs up.

Lochgreen House Hotel may not be breaking new ground, but pairing elegant surroundings, impeccable service and classic cooking seems to be a recipe for magic.

Rating: 10/10

Lochgreen House Hotel

Monktonhill Rd


KA10 7EN

Tel: 01292 313343