Eating out: a traditional taste of Greece

Traditional Greek dessert kataifi rounded off a memorable meal.
Traditional Greek dessert kataifi rounded off a memorable meal.
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THE Extra’s first food review required a restaurant synonymous with the southside — a well-kept secret among natives.

The Greek Golden Kebab, on Battlefield’s Sinclair Drive, ticked both boxes.

The family-run eatery has been in the community for more than 40 years, this year moving to premises new across the road — the freshly-decorated Frosoulla’s taking the restaurant into the future (just across the road, so not to worry Battlefield regulars).

But for now, the Kyriacou family establishment remains unaltered and unphased by a lengthy time in the food business (the proof is in the number of regulars coming and going on a rainy weeknight).

From a menu of traditional, home-cooked style meals, I opted for kalamari to start — and sooned learned that pacing is everything if you’re going to conquer the portions at the Greek Golden Kebab.

The plate came stacked with light and crispy battered squid rings; perfectly cooked, without overdoing the delicate seafood.

The other half showed me up by ordering a healthier option, herby feta and salad, and said it was the first time he’d struggled to finish a starter (high praise indeed from him).

We both opted for lamb next; his, a skewered kebab with chips and mine kleftiko (lamb on the bone) served with rice and salad.

The kleftiko fell apart at the touch of a fork and was beautifully seasoned, and the chargrilled meat was as tasty — again, both were a bit too generously portioned (not that the OH was 

Still, a reviewer must soldier on, and dessert beckoned.

We finished with kafaiti and paklava; variations on the same theme, with filo pastry, chopped nuts, honey and cream. I would happily return for a portion of either (and I’m not a dessert person).

The Greek Golden Kebab’s move across the road may take them from 1973 to 2013 in terms of decor, but here’s hoping they keep the traditional, hearty food which has seen them right for so long.

Rating: 7/10