Restaurant Review: West on the Corner

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In the short time that West has been turning hops into sweet beery nectar at the Templeton building, it has become something of a Glasgow institution.

We’re as proud of St Mungo lager as we are of that (dare I say it?) other brew beginning with a T — so there may be a case to make for reappropriating the nickname ‘Glasgow water’.

And West’s success is showing, with the empire branching further afield — most recently to a new cafe bar in Woodlands.

Forget dolling yourself up for the west end — West on the Corner feels like it’s an Ikea-decked Edinburgh estimation of the beer hall on Glasgow Green.

It’s lighter, airier and more like a trendy restaurant than a German drinking den — its hip ghost sign beckoning to the westenders who don’t have the train fare, the childcare or the energy to make it to the east end.

The other half was torn. On the one hand, he loves a pint of West. On the other, On The Corner is on the former site of the beloved Halt Bar — so it had some big shoes to fill.

Beef goulash soon shut him up; rich, meaty soup laced with smoky paprika — perfect for dunking Tapa rye bread slathered with butter. When temperatures drop (even further), you’ll know where to find me; cosied up with a bowl of this.

My fish cake with West’s curry ketchup was tasty - particularly the sauce — although with more potato than flaky haddock, it made for a dense starter.

The OH moved on to jäger schnitzel; a thin pork escalope in a mushroom sauce. The sauce was the star of the plate; rich, creamy and perfect for mopping up with thin golden fries.

I opted for the bratwürstl burger in a pretzel bun; a thick sausagemeat patty topped with beetroot and apple slaw. Pork burgers can be denser than crumbly beef, and this one took a while to get through (hello meat sweats) — but that pretzel bun was a revelation; a great change from the oh-so-trendy brioche and perfect for holding it all together.

Well, I say that...it’s rare that your plate ends up lilac mid-meal. That beetroot slaw is a funny colour, alright — but it’s well worth the mopping up, with enough crunch and earthiness to add new heights to the humble burger. Add a punchy mustard mayo and nutty cheese and it might just be worth the numerous napkins needed.

There was absolutely no need for dessert. But after sampling (between us) toasty Munich Red, a refreshing German Pale Ale (perfect for the IPA skeptic like myself), coffee-tinged West Black stout and (my favourite) the zingy wheat beer, we were lured in, beer goggles focusing in on some Hefeweizen ice cream.

I went for that, topped with raspberry compote; a good combination of sweet and tangy, with citrus beer shining through.

The black forest fondant, sadly, wouldn’t have made it through the Masterchef taste test — there was no melting middle — but as a cake, it tasted good with crème fraîche ice cream.

Does West on the Corner live up to the original? Well, it’s hard to beat that beautiful building and park setting — but then, the west end version seems to be establishing its own character.

And as long as they keep pulling those pints and dishing up classics like warming goulash, there’s little doubt that On the Corner will fill those tables.

Beef goulash with Tapa rye bread - £6

Haddock fish cake, mixed leaves and West curry sauce - £5

Jäger schnitzel in a rich wild mushroom sauce, salad and fries - £13

West burger in a pretzel bun, beetroot and apple slaw, mustard mayo, fries (add cheese or bacon for £1) - £12

Hefeweizen and raspberry compote - £5

Black Forest fondant, crème fraîche and ice cream - £5

Total for two (minus drinks): £47

West on the Corner

160 Woodlands Rd

Glasgow

0141 332 0540