Restaurant Review: Tempus has bags of style

editorial image

With long sweeping corridors leading to the dining room and a revamp which has clearly taken time and money, dinner at Tempus still feels something of a grand affair.

The Grand Central Hotel restaurant is a nod to the glamour of yesteryear with starched white napkins and a balcony where the evening’s entertainment presumably once would have sat.

Still, there’s a nod to the hotel’s railway heritage with a cityscape mural hanging over diners; workmen going to and fro in Glasgow’s more picturesque but nonetheless practical train station — a reminder of the ticket booths and fed up city workers waiting through the wall today.

The other half and I took a break from last week’s unseasonal sunshine to wander the corridors of the refurbished hotel and find Tempus; the Grand Central take on Glasgow fine dining.

Tempus trades in polite service; impeccably dressed staff regularly checking in that all is well at the table — and for the most part, all was.

The OH started with a goats cheese salad— a saintly bowl of greenery topped with a halo of gold-molten cheese.

Flecks of aubergine throughout provided interest,brought together with an otherwise uninspiring bunch of leaves by that crumbling, oozing round of tangy cheese — portion size really wasn’t a problem here.

On my side, dainty scallops could have been seared better, but were still paired well with strips of crispy bacon and a vibrant 
pea puree.

It’s a classic for a reason — sweet morsels of scallop complemented by salty streaks and a hit of fresh peas — and in this case shouted eat me from the plate with colour pops of white, pink and green

On then to the mains, and the OH’s fillet steak and chips was definitely a winner; a moist, succulently seared cut topped with an excellent garlic and herb butter and accompanied by a gorgeous whole cooked tomato (far better than the usual afterthought slice).

My smoked haddock was cooked well; a light, fresh combination with green beans, wilted spinach, poached egg and hollandaise.

It was let down by excess water washing away much of the sauce, but still provided a smoky, yolk-rich mouthful.

We left the hotel’s champagne bar for another visit — but vowed to come back for a more lavish occasion than a midweek meal 
out.

The Grand Central’s new-found style seems more seasoned city slicker than harassed commuter — and it’s a look which suits the historic building, and its restaurant, rather well.

Bill for two:

Seared north west Atlantic scallops with pea puree and crisp pancetta — £8.95

Grilled goats cheese salad, with rocket, baby gem lettuce and grilled vegetables — £5.50

Fillet of smoked haddock with wilted spinach, fine beans, poached egg and hollandaise — £17.50

8oz Fillet Steak with tomatoes, rocket and fries — £25.50, garlic and herb sauce — £1.50

Total: £58.95

Tempus

Glasgow Central Station

99 Gordon Street

Glasgow

G1 3SF

Tel: 0141 240 3700