Restaurant Review: tapas via the round-about route

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FOR those of us too young to remember, it’s hard to imagine life along the Clydeside for generations previous.

Hard graft has been replaced by bright lights and leisure pursuits — and the top floor of the north rotunda in Finnieston is a fine spot to take it all in.

Having visited recently for a review on the ground floor, it felt only fair to scale the stairs for a taste of the newest restaurant on the (round) block, Fino.

The menu promises authentic Spanish tapas (again, a far cry from the Clydeside of old), although there’s more to it than the usual patatas bravas, with more than a few Scottish twists — but does it deliver that dose of sunshine Glasgow still lacks?

We were off to a good start with plump olives and a warm mini loaf served with plenty of oil and vinegar.

Then came the tapas. The first, red piquillo peppers with a meat filling served in a red pepper sauce, was tasty; a rich sauce and well-seasoned stuffing — although at one small pepper each, it wasn’t a hearty start.

The mini burger made with haggis and black pudding was also good, and scoffed by the other half in no time (but not before I’d snaffled a bite — tapas are for sharing, after all).

Prawns wrapped in filo pastry cones were fine, although the salsa romesco at the bottom of the bowl provided more soggy bottoms than bursts of flavour.

A skewer of pork fillet was chewy and uninspiring, but the crispy filo parcel filled with beef stew was better — more Sunday steak pie than sunshine and sangria, but a winner nonetheless.

My black pudding, quail’s egg and onion marmalade tart was more of a tarted-up pile, and there were quality ingredients in the mix, although they were let down a bit by a gritty pastry layer.

The staff at the rotunda restaurant are very friendly and helpful and the restaurant is a stylish nod to Spanish bars, contrasting nicely with some of Glasgow’s best modern views.

But tapas dishes are, by nature, a mixed bag — and such was the case at Fino.

Rating: 6/10

Fino at the Rotunda

28 Tunnel Street

Finnieston

G3 8HL

Tel: 0141 375 1111