Restaurant Review: star turn in Glasgow dining scene

Dreamy: Shetland salmon on a seafood and chorizo broth
Dreamy: Shetland salmon on a seafood and chorizo broth

It’s fair to say that Glasgow’s foodie strength isn’t in its wide and varied high end dining.

News from the latest Michelin Guide is promising, with three Bib Gourmands awarded to local places offering high standards without the hefty price tag. Still, Glasgow is left chasing those Michelin stars, trailing behind equally vibrant cities while weighed down by too many burger bars.

Merchant City eatery Hutchesons has settled near the higher end of that scale.

Its white spire having towered over Ingram Street since 1805, the landmark building now boasts a bar downstairs and restaurant in the grand hall above, all shimmering stained glass and 1920s style opulence.

Even on a Monday night visit, Hutchesons was buzzing; tables filled with business types clocking off, couples nursing soothing weekday cocktails and families too.

Settling into a cosy booth, I started with steak tartare, and was presented with a generous mound of punchy spiced beef, crostini and an egg yolk in half shell adding a touch of theatre.

The OH loved the simple house salad; a classic combo of goat’s cheese, pear and walnuts.

It’s a good job his starter was light as the next course — a special of Iberico pork, roast garlic and chunky chips — could have fed a family of four.

It proved a challenge, finishing off that mountain of succulent, perfectly-cooked pork — he failed, but only just, and a smaller portion with a lower price tag might just be the way forward.

There were, however, no complaints about my salmon; tender flesh and crispy skin nestled on a rich seafood stew with beans, chorizo and gnocchi — a fish lover’s dream.

To finish, we split an exceptionally sweet white choc cheesecake, balanced by a welcome sour shot of raspberry.

Glasgow may not have the stars to prove its culinary might — but in a restaurant like Hutchesons, there’s hope yet for fine dining fans.

Rating: 9/10

Hutchesons

158 Ingram St

Merchant City

G1 1EJ

Tel: 0141 552 4050