Restaurant Review: celebrity chef’s image looms large

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If there’s one point to make about Glasgow’s new Marco Pierre White steakhouse it’s this; there’s no mistaking whose name is over the door.

Should you miss the sign above Hotel Indigo’s restaurant, the many black and white photos of the man himself are sure to give it away.

The grill restaurant is otherwise opulent; heavy soft furnishings and starched white linen. But there’s something of the cult of the celebrity about it, as MPW glowers over your dinner from every direction — although it’s unlikely that he’s grilling up a storm out back.

The other half and I were greeted by Adriana — perhaps our friendliest server yet — and settled down to tomato and mozzarella salad and potted duck to start.

The salad was tasty, with tomatoes of every colour vying for attention with delicate little balls of creamy cheese.

The duck was even better; a rich meaty paste paired perfectly with crisp toast points — although the accompanying piccalilli proved a tad sharp.

The menu has a surprising range of mains, with plenty of seafood delights and grill staples to tempt you — but on a miserable Monday night, neither of us could resist an 8oz fillet steak.

Both were cooked to perfection — even the order for rare — and each sizeable side proved a treat; huge, crispy onion rings, plump grilled tomato and “real” chips, dark brown in colour and perfectly fluffy, not to mention dark blue cheese sauce across the table and sumptuous truffle butter on my end.

We finished with generous portions of bitter chocolate mousse and eton mess (with added tang, thanks to the addition of blackberries) — both completely unnecessary, but well worth the bloat.

It’s a strange setting for a weekday meal — not least because of the many selfies adorning the walls, and the vibe that it’s merely a place to be seen — but focus on the food itself and it’s worth a trip into the world of Marco Pierre White.

Rating: 8/10

Marco Pierre White

75 Waterloo Street

Glasgow

G2 7DA

Tel: 0141 226 7726