Food Review: Cau, Glasgow

Mmmmmm steak cooked to perfection at Cau.
Mmmmmm steak cooked to perfection at Cau.

A reviewer should never put too much of themselves into their writing — unless they’re interesting enough to warrant it.

That’s always been my philosophy; that those of you reading The Extra’s food page are here for the grub and not the gossip.

But, since it’s my last review before moving on to pastures new (no pun intended), I’ll say that it’s a sad moment for me — and not just because I’m giving up on a lot of tasty eats.

The Extra’s food page kicked off around about the same time as Glasgow’s food scene became, well, a scene.

The city may have lagged behind on the culinary front in previous years, but nowadays there’s a new restaurant opening weekly, each realising that the appetite for new and exciting flavours is there in Glasgow — provided they pitch it right.

On then to Cau, the Argentinian steakhouse taking pride of place in a shiny new setting opposite the Gallery of Modern Art.

It’s pronounced ‘cow’, just for info — it’s amazing the things Google will tell you.

It’s an impressive place beckoning you in; mirrored surfaces, cloud-like lighting and flecks of grass-green reminding you of the ideal conditions Argentine beef has to grow.

Having been invited for a steak and wine masterclass, I rounded up a friend who loves at least one of those things and headed along for a tutorial on Cau’s choice cuts of meat.

The place deals in rump, rib-eye and sirloin, and we were able to sample them all, with a few complementary Malbecs.

The first, rump, was the leanest; more iron-rich than the butter-soft, fattier cuts — but still a tasty mouthful, perfectly paired with cooler, earthier glass of red.

The sirloin was an old favourite; succulent, well-paired with a warmer Malbec — Wow for Cau, made especially for the place — and perfectly medium-rare.

But if I was making a return visit (and based on the first visit, it’s likely, I might go for the rib-eye — a cut I’d usually sidestep in favour of sirloin or fillet.

That’s because Cau’s way of cooking it — butchered in an L shape and butterflied out, to allow that plentiful fat to render down — made for a gorgeously rich, creamy mouthful; the fat adding flavour without taking away from the texture.

The addition of chimichurri, Argentinian seasoning/sauce, punchy with fresh parsley and garlic, was wonderful — a must, if you’re heading along to Cau for a meat feast.

Our masterclass ended with an empanada-making competition — sad to say my chorizo-stuffed pasty didn’t win the prize, although I was proud of it! And with that — and, full disclaimer: a few more glasses from that lovely Malbec menu — I left Cau determined that it wouldn’t be the last visit, even after hanging up my Extra hat.

CAU GLASGOW

Unit 1, 224 Ingram St

Glasgow

G1 3BX

0141 221 6272