Eating out: diner gets it right

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AMERICAN restaurants should, as a rule, have authentic dishes served in huge portions.

However, when “diners” are attempted in Glasgow, they usually come across as no more than poor imitations.

The servings are often miniscule and the menu is littered with blatantly British options to appease the punters.

But in trying to please everybody, all too often you please nobody.

There is a market in Glasgow for good American food, cooked traditionally for those with a more than ample appetites.

Thankfully, the New York Kitchen is more than just a run-of-the-mill restaurant in American fancy dress.

Why can’t more restaurants realise that if you are trying to capture a style of food, it’s the little things, like a bottle of Frank’s hot sauce, that make the difference?

For starters, you don’t get much more American than a portion of Buffalo wings, and a portion of ribs, although the chicken wings were not deep fried, and the ribs could have been more tender.

However, there were absolutely no complaints about my main, a perfectly cooked chicken melt: two breasts, topped with mozzarella and marinara sauce and accompanied by a mountain of chilli cheese fries.

A veritable feast for any man, woman or child — a challenge worthy of Man v. Food’s Adam Richman.

The popularity of the aforementioned TV show should teach a lesson to all aspiring restauranteurs looking to cash in on the craze of traditional American food (and there are many — almost every restaurant is now serving pulled pork, which is a far cry from a year ago).

It isn’t about just huge portions — although that helps. It’s about a love for cooking and a care for ingredients.

And that’s what New York Kitchen seems to aspire to.

Rating: 7/10

The New York Kitchen

562 Dumbarton Road

Partick

Tel: 0141 334 9000